Genalguacil - An artists' village

Tarifa and back: an easy day-trip of exhilarating driving

Choose a day of good weather, so that when you get there you can appreciate the sculptures against a backdrop of a clear blue sky. If the weather is warm enough (also up in the mountains, you get to a height of 1.300 m) you may like to take a picnic which you can enjoy at the Mirador (after Jubrique) on your way back ……

We did this day-trip at the end of February, leaving Tarifa at 09.00 a.m. It was snowing almost everywhere else in Europe, but in this corner of Andalucia we had brilliant sunshine as we drove round Algeciras on the N.340 to turn off in the direction of Jimena de la Frontera on the A 369.

Stay on the A 369, direction Ronda. There are not many places open at this season for coffee, so you have a choice of either the petrol station on your left as you come to the turning for Gaucin, or a small bar on the left at the corner of the A 373 at Algotocin. We enjoyed coffee here, with tostada (toast) with olive oil and crushed tomato, a typical Spanish breakfast dish. A little later in the year you may find the restaurant Los Labraos on your left just after Benadalid is open.

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Shortly after this (and still on the A369) you see the turning on your right to Jubrique and Genalguacil (which is your destination). However, you may like to drive on for ten minutes to Atajate and stop at the Panaderia Rocío, Productos Naturales, which is on your right on this main street. Enter this tiny store through the beaded curtain, and buy their speciality, Queso de Almendra (which makes an original gift of local produce to take home). It is made according to her great-great-great grandmothers recipe, of almonds, egg yolk and olive oil (no flour) and is shaped as a round cheese, thus its name. It comes in an attractive red box, and only costs €.7.50 - not expensive for pure almond marzipan.

Shortly after the shop, it is easy to turn round, and retrace your route to the turning, now on your left, to Jubrique. Follow this road (M 536) - if it is lunchtime, you may like to stop at the Venta San Juan. This is nice out of season, and is open every day except Thursday. A little further on you turn right as indicated to Genalguacil (M 537).

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Genalguacil is a small white village lying cosily against the mountain with wonderful views. It is a ‘dead end’ street. Ten years ago nobody came there.

At the initiative of the Mayor, some ten years ago fifteen artists were invited to stay in the village for two weeks. They still get together every two years for the last two weeks in August for the ‘Art Encounters of Genalguacil’. One of the conditions for participation is that each artist leaves one of his works on permanent exhibition, either in the streets (sculptures) or in the museum. As you enter the village you see a brightly painted totem pole on your right, and a horse made of pale wooden boarding on your left. Park your car before entering the village.

You can now get a small map of the art works from the local museum, or you can just wander along the streets - nearly every corner holds a surprise. The white figures reclining along the roof edge of one of the houses against a backdrop of a clear blue sky were very eye catching, as was the ‘pregnant woman’ carved in wood. The whole village is spotlessly clean, the local population eager to welcome visitors.

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You will pass a couple of restaurants - Bar/Restaurant El Refugio has a small outside bar with a great view and a lemon tree heavy with fruit.

Leaving the village you take the same road back, this time turning right for Jubrique onto the wonderful, narrow and very bendy MA557 mountain road over the Sierra Bermeja - not for the faint-hearted driver, or those who suffer car sickness.

Your next stop is at the Paseo de los Pinsapos at 1.300 m. where those of nimble foot can have a walk into the forest to see these Mediterranean pine trees unique to this area (and Grazalema) - typical Christmas tree form, their branches pointing downwards, you can imagine yourself in Scandinavia - they resemble a Norwegian pine with hard needles. If you are an intrepid walker a path of 4.5 kms (2 hours) may tempt you!
We chose to drive on to the Mirador to relax and imbibe the vastness of the view and a coffee from our thermos.

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From there continue on the MA 557 in the direction of Estepona. The views are stunning. Suddenly you come over the top, and the whole coastline from Estepona to Marbella lies spread out beneath you. Breathtaking - from a distance!

The nearer you come to the coast the more you leave behind you the pure magic of Andalucia at its very best. We had hardly passed another car, had said a hundred times ‘just look at that view’, had taken endless photos of yet another cluster of almond trees in full bloom, had wondered at the strange shapes and forms of the rock formations, had craned our necks to watch the vultures soaring overhead. Simply said, we had had a great day, and were back in Tarifa in plenty of time to watch the sunset.

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Hotel Guesthouse Dar Cilla Tarifa Spain Zoë is the owner of Guesthouse Dar Cilla which is unique of its sort in Tarifa. It is located on the outskirts of the old town within the old 12th century walls. 'Dar' is an Arabic word for a town house in which a series of suites are grouped around a central courtyard. Each suite is fully independent, but there is a pleasant air of 'sociability' and you will meet Zoë and fellow guests on the roof terrace over a glass of wine.

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