Feria in Jerez
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A day at the Feria in Jerez

By Zoë Ouwehand-Reid

The Feria at Jerez takes place each year in the second week of May. DON’T MISS IT !

It is an ‘up-market’ Feria for the elegant population of Jerez, the city famed for its sherry (Domecq, Harveys Bristol Cream and Tio Pepe etc.) and thus its well-to-do families. There are relatively few tourists.

Wednesday is LADIES DAY - a spectacular riot of colour, one big swirl of flounced dresses, each lady with a flower in her hair, all ages, all shapes, all equally stunning, all ready-and-waiting to break into song and dance. They are all there in their new dresses to ‘see and be seen’ and are flattered to be asked to pose for a photo. It is not crowded, and if you follow my proposed schedule you will have a relaxed day, enjoying an event surely amongst the best Spain has to offer.


--- Feria in Jerez ---

If horses are the love of your life I am told you should go Thursday through Saturday, when each rider, horse and horse-drawn carriage is there to surpass the all others. As the week progresses, so do the crowds increase, culminating on Sunday when ‘everyone who is anyone’ is there. Unless you ‘know and are known’ I, personally would tend to avoid such a day.

Proposed schedule: if you go by car, go from Tarifa on the N.340 and just past Vejer turn right for Medina Sidonia. At the roundabout follow Paternes, and you come to the new autoroute to Jerez. Leaving Tarifa around 11.00 a.m. you will arrive in Jerez around 12.45 - follow the signs for the Feria, and at this hour parking should not be a problem.

--- Feria in Jerez ---


It is also very easy to go by bus. Buy your single ticket (approx. €.8.50) at the Tarifa bus office the day before, and take the bus of 10.30. Uncrowded. Air cooled. It takes about 2 hours 10 minutes, stopping several times, going via Conil, Puerto Real and Puerto Santa Maria. As you enter Jerez you see the sherry bodegas of Domecq, Harveys etc. The final destination of this bus is the bus station in Jerez so you have no doubt about where to get off. Take a taxi to the Feria (about 5 minutes, €.4).

--- Feria in Jerez ---

Walk down the broad Avenida to the centre of the Feria ground, past the many ‘casitas’ - these are sunshade covered restaurants; some of these are reserved for families or clubs, others are open to the public. Choose an outside (front row) table IN THE SHADE, it is about 28 -30 degrees. It is now about 13.15 so there is still plenty of choice. Enjoy a drink - typical for this sherry area and particularly for the Feria is a ‘rebujito’ (a tot of sherry, casera lemonade and ice), or alternatively a small beer = caña, pronounced ‘canya’ or a fruit juice - un zumo, and a tapa, perhaps tortilla = Spanish potato omelette, or a montadito = a small roll with a slice of warm meat.
Spin out your drink -you have a front row seat - and enjoy the colours of the dresses which are really fantastic, as are the many horses and carriages with their elegant riders.


--- Feria in Jerez ---

Around 15.00 hrs you get the feeling you ought to vacate your table (all the Spaniards now move in for lunch and there is therefore less going on anyhow). Take a walk up and down, maybe enjoy an ice-cream (it’s now pretty hot) and then by 15.30 - 15.45 take a taxi back to the bus station which is cool, and empty, not uncomfortable seats. Go to the COMES ticket office and buy your ticket back to Tarifa.(NB- should you bought a return ticket, you MUST go to this COMES counter in good time to get your ticket revalidated for the return journey to be sure of a seat - the return is often rather full).
Relax until the bus is there - departure 16.30, usually from lay-by No.1 (001 on your ticket). You are back in Tarifa around 18.40, having had one stop en route for ‘refreshments’. The next bus is only at 21.35.
In my view you can’t fail to enjoy this most Spanish of Spanish outings.


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About Zoë and her guesthouse

Hotel Guesthouse Dar Cilla  Tarifa SpainZoë is the owner of Guesthouse Dar Cilla which is unique of its sort in Tarifa. It is located on the outskirts of the old town within the old 12th century walls. 'Dar' is an Arabic word for a town house in which a series of suites are grouped around a central courtyard. Each suite is fully independent, but there is a pleasant air of 'sociability' and you will meet Zoë and fellow guests on the roof terrace over a glass of wine.

More about ZoëMore about Zoë
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