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day (or 2) in CadizA day (or 2) in Cadiz
Driving Time: Approx. 1 hr. 20 minutes (more in high season when there can be a lot of traffic in both directions on this road, the N.340/E.5).
Parking: Follow the N.340 to Cadiz; as you near the city you come automatically onto a large Avenida through the New Town with a lot of traffic lights and various Parkings. You can take one of these parkings and then take a bus to the old town, or just head for the old town where there are several underground parkings.
However,
as the old town parkings can get very full, I have an alternative suggestion!
You can book a parking beforehand at Garajes Beato Diego 12, tel. 956
222 380 at approx. €.12 per day. Certainly do this if you stay
two days. You continue down the Avenida until you automatically go under
the old town arch. Bear right and follow this road round - you
pass the train station RENFE on your right, then the harbour on your
right, then come to the bus station COMES on your right - this
is on Plaza de la Hispanidad (near number 17 on your map of Cadiz).
Turn here (following your map) and head for the nearby Plaza de España
(number 17 on your map). Go round this square, i.e. right, then left
then left again) into Ave. Ramon de Carranza. Take SECOND small street
to right, this is Beato Diego, and the small garage is half way up on
the right.
Or … continue driving on Ave. Ramon de Carranza and park underneath
the Paseo de Canalejas.
CADIZ OLD-TOWN is small and compact and you can walk anywhere from any
of these parkings.
Now you need your first coffee and croissant. Coffee bars, tapa bars
and terraces abound in Cadiz - as do banks. The town has a lively
and authentic air, very relaxed, very few tourists; it is great for
‘people watching’! One of the Tourist Offices is on square
B.4 of your map. The city has a magnificent cathedral, more than 12
churches and 4 museums, art galleries and excellent shops (designer
clothes to fashionable accessories; there is DEVERNOIS, ZARA, MANGO).
--- A day (or 2) in Cadiz ---
The Torre Tavira/Cámara Oscura is a ‘must’; however it is not for the faint hearted or weak-kneed as there are approximately 70 steps to the top viewing platform (mirador) from whence you get a fantastic 360o overview of Cadiz. The subsequent 15 minute visit to the Cámara Oscura (one floor down) is fascinating (sessions are in various languages) and is also interesting for children. I found it an odd sensation when the guide first put out the light - I felt slightly off-balance, and then -a sobering thought- realized just what it must be like to be blind.Unless you are an avid church visitor I (personally) would recommend you admire the exterior architecture rather than visiting; the interiors are not (in my view) memorable. I stand to be corrected by anyone who finds what I did not!
HISTORY IN (very) BRIEF (for more details see your guide book)
Oldest
city in Europe (first built over 3.000 years ago)
As from 711 it was Muslim territory
In the 13th century it was taken back by Spain
In the 18th century - the Golden Age of Cadiz - this city
monopolized sea-trade and established trade links with USA
The first Spanish Constitution was approved and signed here in 1812
In ‘fourteen hundred and ninety two Columbus sailed the ocean
blue’ …(a refrain I learnt at school to help me remember
this date!) and discovered America, leaving on his first trip from a
nearby port (Palos de la Frontera).
Present population over 140.000, of which some 40.000 in the Old Town
For me, the joy of Cadiz is that it is a ‘living museum’ oozing both past and present charm. The long, straight and narrow streets remain shady and cool as a result of the tall houses on either side, all with classical iron balconies. It is unspoilt and has a very small ‘expat’ community. The Mayor is a woman (2007) and the town is kept very clean. It has a delightful air of cared-for-delapidation. It is a liberal, cosmopolitan city. I am told by ‘insiders’ that the people of Cadiz are intensely proud of their city, cannot envisage there could be anywhere better to live (location, beaches, climate, harbour, culture, general atmosphere and cost of living etc..) the result of which is a very relaxed attitude to life. I found them friendly and service good. The sheer number of bars is impressive. It is a place to wander, far from the ‘madding crowds’ of the Costa del Sol. Long may Cadiz stay this way.
If you only have a day, and feel you would like a guide for a morning (or afternoon) to help you get your bearings and see the most important things without losing time, call INI, 653 639 341 who is a resident of Cadiz, speaking Dutch, English and Spanish. She is knowledgeable and professional, and does guiding (€.15 per hour) to supplement her artist’s income. She is tall and red-haired so you can’t miss her.
A 2-day-2-night-Visit
DAY
ONE
For me (again personally!) the ideal way to visit Cadiz is to stay two
nights there. I park my car and don’t move it again until leaving.
Everything is within walking distance. Perhaps leave Tarifa around 10.30,
arriving Cadiz around 12.00. Go to your hotel and leave your luggage.
Walk to Torre Tavira/Cámara Oscura (see above) and after this
visit head for Playa La Caleta for a drink, and to Taberna Manteca (it
is now around 15.00 hrs.) for a tapas lunch (see below). Wander back
through the narrow streets, enjoy a siesta, and head out again around
17.00-18.00 hrs when all the shops reopen and the locals gather in all
the squares and on all the terraces.
--- A day (or 2) in Cadiz ---
DAY
TWO
Why not take the little wooden boat across the water to Puerta Santa
Maria, famous for its fish restaurants, and the favourite summer resort
of the Spanish escaping the heat of Sevilla?
Alternatively, there is a catamaran which takes you to the small town
of Rota on the opposite shore. I am told this is nice (have not been
there as yet myself).
--- A day (or 2) in Cadiz ---
HOTEL
There is not a large choice of hotels in Cadiz, other than the Parador
and some large hotel ‘chains’ in the new town. There are
no ‘Special Places to Stay’ (here lies a great opportunity
for an entrepreneur - I would do it if I were getting younger!).
There are a number of Pensions listed on internet or the map but, to
be utterly immodest, I have yet to discover one that has the charm and
comfort of Dar Cilla!
I
prefer HOTEL LAS CORTES DE CADIZ, C/San Franccisco 9, near Plaza Mina
with its ancient trees giving abundant shade. Tel. 956 220 489; [email protected].
Originally built in 1856, it has recently been refurbished (2006) with
modern rooms, pleasant bright colours, hyper clean and friendly. Ask
for a quiet room overlooking back patio (these rooms are also no-smoking)
as there is considerable street noise if you have a front room and the
rubbish collection van at 04.30 is guaranteed to wake anyone.
Double room approx. €.80 + IVA and including breakfast …
but I choose to forget this typical ‘hotel’ breakfast and
sit outside at the café right next door where the fresh fruit
juice and coffee are much better.
I am told if you book well ahead the hotel also has its own garage.
RESTAURANT
I recommend in particular Meson Cumbres Mayores, c/Zorilla 4, near Plaza
Mina. This is atmospheric,very authentic (décor, food) with Spanish
hams hanging along the walls, wooden ceilings, a good tapa area in front,
good prices (my favourite white wine, Viña Esmeralda, is sold
here for €.14 per bottle whereas it is marked up to €.18 in
various places in Tarifa!).
It is necessary to book: 956 21 32 70. Dinner as from 20.30hrs.
--- A day (or 2) in Cadiz ---
TAPA
BAR
These abound! All looked good. One I particularly enjoyed, at lunchtime
and not far from Torre Tavira/Cámara Oscura, or from beach La
Caleta, was Taberna Manteca, c/Corralon de los Carros 66 (closed on
Mondays). The sepia prints of famous bullfighters, including the owner’s
father, abound.
--- A day (or 2) in Cadiz ---
BEACH
How lovely to be in a town surrounded by water, with a wonderful climate
(over 300 days of sun per year and very little rain) a fascinating harbour
(commercial and yachting) and a beach. See your map for the Playa de
La Caleta. There is a café down the steps where you can sit,
sipping your rose wine, on the promenade looking out over all the little
fishing boats with a castle on either side (San Sebastian and Santa
Catalina). Then go to Taberna Manteca (see above) for a tapas lunch.
--- A day (or 2) in Cadiz ---
MISSING
A SPA - a top quality health/beauty centre overlooking the sea
… It would be an ideal location and climate for a winter break.
I did not discover a hammam either.
ENJOY YOUR TIME IN CADIZ!
More
on Tarifa Round About
Recommended places to visit - 'Westwards'
Benalup
Golf and Country Club
Medina
Sidonia
A
day (or two) in Cádiz
Recommended
places to visit - 'Eastwards'
Castillo
de Castellar
Recommended places to eat
Restaurants
round about Tarifa
More on Tarifa Inside Out and Round About
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Outside
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Afield
Morocco
About Zoë and her guesthouse
Zoë
is the owner of Guesthouse Dar Cilla which is unique of its sort in Tarifa.
It is located on the outskirts of the old town within the old 12th century walls.
'Dar' is an Arabic word for a town house in which a series of suites are grouped
around a central courtyard. Each suite is fully independent, but there is a
pleasant air of 'sociability' and you will meet Zoë and fellow guests on
the roof terrace over a glass of wine.
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