Perhaps the most famous ‘white villages’ route is the A.639 which goes off the E.15/N.340 at San Roque and takes you to Ronda via Jimena de la Frontera, passing the picturesque white villages of Gaucin, Benarraba, Algotocin and Atajate.

In truth, many of these white villages are more interesting from a distance than once you are actually in them when they can often seem more dead than alive, and are often a nightmare with a slightly-too-large car! Some of them, such as Gaucin, have a large expatriate community.

--- Vejer de la Frontera ---

In our opinion, one of the most charming, authentic and well kept white villages is Vejer de la Frontera, within easy reach of Tarifa . As the name - de la Frontera - indicates, this village - along with Arcos de la Frontera, Castellar de la Frontera, Jimena de la Frontera and Cortes de la Frontera, was formerly a frontier post built by the Moors who were brilliant at locating the perfect hilltop on which to construct their fortifications.

We suggest you leave Tarifa around 18.30 in the summer months of May, June, July and August (maybe a little earlier in March, April, September and October) so that you can enjoy the benefit of the sunset - the views from the ramparts are really great. Take the N.340 direction Cadiz.

You see Vejer perched on the hillside in front of you. The road narrows and there is a rock face on your right.You will see a small turning left to Vejer marked La Barca de Vejer. Do not take this. You pass a second turning to Vejer-Barbate (there is a Cepsa petrol station on your right). Do not take this either. You pass the turning off right to Medina Sidonia.

--- Vejer de la Frontera ---

Shortly thereafter there is a roundabout - take the 2nd turning left to Vejer (CA214) and El Palmar (CA2141 - note this latter also for another day, and see under the entry Restaurant La Chanca, El Palmar).

Follow the CA214 up the winding road until you come to a spacious parking on your left, and several shops on your right. We suggest you park here - the village has narrow, winding streets and it is not easy to park, so although parking here involves an initial somewhat uphill walk it is a pleasant palm lined road, and you will find it by far the most relaxing way to commence your visit to Vejer. The Tourist Information Centre is on the corner here, so it is well worth while picking up a map, and the latest edition of the English language magazine La Luz which gives you a fund of local information.

--- Vejer de la Frontera ---

As the road levels off, it splits. Take the left hand road; from the wall on your left you have a splendid view over the rolling hills below you and into the far distance. This brings you to Plaza Padre Caro; turn right down into the very attractive and typically Spanish main square, Plaza de Espana.

On your right you have Restaurant Trafalgar where you may decide to stop for a drink at one of the pavement tables. Most foreigners stop here. You may opt for the more Spanish Bar Peneque next door, and order a ‘mantadito de lomo’ (small sandwich with warm meat) and a ‘caña’ (small beer). You may like to visit the Hotel El Jardin del Califa directly opposite. This is a most unusual and attractive hotel, which has a really great restaurant with a shady patio, they serve simply delicious Lebanese and Moroccan dishes. This is also a delightful restaurant at lunchtime.

--- Vejer de la Frontera ---

Just beyond Restaurant Trafalgar are some old steps going up. Take these, and go under the arch. You will see a number of small, quite attractive little shops. Continue up the hill and pass the restaurant La Vera Cruz (recommended Le Routard 2003) - attractively laid out with fresh, white tablecloths. Perhaps you would like to reserve a table for a meal at 9.30 p.m. when you have finished your walk?

For the moment, continue up the hill. It is a small, compact and well sign-posted small town. You will soon see a sign to your left for the Castillo or you may take the turning to the right up to the ramparts where you have a lovely view of the sunset, and a perfect photographic opportunity. Then pass under the arch (another Bar stop at Bar La Bodeguita??) and the road brings you back to the point where you took the left hand road at the beginning of your tour.

--- Vejer de la Frontera ---

Either turn left to go downhill towards the parking (this is now on your right), or go back into the town to your chosen restaurant.

As always, the above is purely a personal recommendation of a route we enjoy, just long enough, including two ‘bar-stops’ , incorporating the sunset, and ending up at a pleasant restaurant.

Note that in May and June the charming, flower filled patios are open to visitors - you will see posters for Primavera de Vejer patios.

Roman Ruins in Bolonia
A great walk from Bolonia
Evening drive: Facinas to los Barrios
El Palomar de la Breña
Vejer de la Frontera

Recommended places to eat - 'Westwards'

Restaurants outside Tarifa - Westwards

Recommended places to visit - 'Eastwards'

Agua park Algeciras
Gibraltar

 

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More on Tarifa Inside Out and Round About

Inside
Round About
Further Afield
Morocco

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About Zoë and her guesthouse

Zoë is the owner of Guesthouse Dar Cilla which is unique of its sort in Tarifa. It is located on the outskirts of the old town within the old 12th century walls. 'Dar' is an Arabic word for a town house in which a series of suites are grouped around a central courtyard. Each suite is fully independent, but there is a pleasant air of 'sociability' and you will meet Zoë and fellow guests on the roof terrace over a glass of wine.

More about Zoë
More about Guesthouse Dar Cilla

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