Medina Sidonia

Personally, if you really want to get the flavour of the place, I would recommend a one-night stop in Medina Sidonia which is possibly the most attractive, small and very authentically Spanish, white hill-top town that I know. Personally, I love it. It hums with the daily bustle of local life.

Here I am, end February, 11 a.m., sitting on yet another of those oh-so-strategically placed benches, with a view ‘to die for’. In front of me is the beautifully restored old church, Iglesia de Santa Maria, Gothic and Renaissance architecture of the XV1-XV11 centuries and the square with the visitor’s information centre. Bar Machin is in the corner, the restaurant offering a panoramic view - a haven should you be here on a day the Levante wind is blowing. The occasional fellow traveller stops for a chat. We feel privileged persons to have such a wonderful place almost to ourselves.

--- Medina Sidonia ---

I came from Tarifa - a drive of one hour to Medina, first on the N.340, turning off to Medina just after Vejer onto the A 393, a lovely road between gently rolling green hills on either side. Suddenly there was Medina Sidonia, curled around this conical hilltop. After the roundabout turn left for the town, follow the signs for Centro Urbano; there are a couple of Parkings indicated after Plaza España and from there everything is easy walking distance. (N.B. it is a one-way anti-clockwise traffic system so if you have missed the parking you may have to go round again!).
I chose to arrive around 16.00 hours as it is siesta-time, no traffic, making it easier for a somewhat hesitant driver to find her way around.

--- Medina Sidonia ---

For me, there is only one place to stay (see below)! On arrival at Casa La Loba, which charmed me from the hallway even before entering, I too had a siesta. Later my host offered me a tapa, a glass of excellent wine, and advice on where to dine. Recently revamped, Restaurant Bar Cadiz on the main square is very congenial. The simple brown and white check tablecloths and sepia photos tone down the bright lighting - candles not being the norm in Spanish establishments. Good food and super-clean as, incidentally, is the whole of Medina Sidonia. The subtle floodlighting of the churches -perched high above the town- and on the lovely neo-classical Town Hall built in the XV111 century at one end of the spacious plaza, emphasized the historical beauty of this sophisticated, very authentic Spanish town. I really love it. I can only assume you, the reader, will too! Try, if possible, to come out of season and definitely choose a clear, wind-still day so you can look out over the terracotta tiled roofs and marvel at the vistas stretching all the way to the coast (Cadiz) and to Jerez.

--- Medina Sidonia ---

The churches and castle have been tastefully restored. The steps, seats, balustrades, cacti, tropical vegetation, trees laden with oranges, and a friendly, well-dressed local populace all contribute to the Feel Good Feeling I get as I sit here, the sun warming the cockles of my heart. It is truly a unique spot.

Now midday, the main square is teeming with life; children, prams, the elderly - and everyone seems to be smiling; it makes me think of the second -less well-known verse of Auld Lang Syne: ‘you smile at one, he smiles at you, and so one smile makes two’ !

--- Medina Sidonia ---

I left Medina (with regret!) and took the direction of Algeciras/Benalup. At the first roundabout at the bottom of the hill I took Paterna/Algeciras; this brought me onto the Autovia 381 which is a lovely road even though it cuts right through the Natural Park of Los Alcornales, a rich forest of cork oaks which fan out over the hills to either side. Cork is such a fantastic natural product, also for individually designed and handmade furniture. Cork is getting scarcer and more expensive by the year.
There are a number of rivers/rivulets and lakes created by spring water coming up out of the ground, to either side, and the best place to stop is the slip road signposted Charca Redonda where you can look out over one such lake. I then chose to take the road through Los Barrios, which is a thriving, well-kept little town with carefully tended formal gardens either side of the road and a large, colourful, freshly-painted train in the childrens’ playground on your left as you exit. Suddenly Gibraltar rises up before you - always impressive- and you come back onto the A.381 and then the busy E.15/N.340 past Algeciras and over the hills to Tarifa and the now familiar fabulous view of the Straits of Gibraltar across to the mountains of Morocco.

Medina - Tarifa without stopping takes just over an hour.
Yet another ‘day of all days’.

--- Medina Sidonia ---

Recommended accommodation in Medina Sidonia - 'Casa La Loba'

For me, and for the like-minded, this is THE place to stay. ‘Less is more’ said James, and this sums up his minimalistic approach to unadulterated comfort and charm.
For more information, see the book Special Places to Stay - Spain 2005 edition, entry 245.

Website Casa La Loba in Medina Sidonia

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About Zoë and her guesthouse

Hotel Guesthouse Dar Cilla Tarifa Spain Zoë is the owner of Guesthouse Dar Cilla which is unique of its sort in Tarifa. It is located on the outskirts of the old town within the old 12th century walls. 'Dar' is an Arabic word for a town house in which a series of suites are grouped around a central courtyard. Each suite is fully independent, but there is a pleasant air of 'sociability' and you will meet Zoë and fellow guests on the roof terrace over a glass of wine.

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